Whether it's your first Bonnaroo or you’re a music festival veteran, we welcome you to Inforoo.
Here you'll find info about artists, rumors, camping tips, and the infamous Roo Clues. Have a look around then create an account and join in the fun. See you at Bonnaroo!!
If you plan on putting $3000 down, like you mentioned above, the "gap" due to depreciation should be minimal if you negotiate a good deal. And there is always gap insurance (though I've never bought it.)
I really can't argue with buying a used car (if you use due diligence) and I've always had good luck with them. But lately I've taken to buying new, when a great deal raises its head, and I like the idea of knowing the maintenance record. With basic maintenance on a new car, it should last well over 200k and I usually get 300k or better.
One note: If you work on your own vehicles be sure and take that into consideration when buying. I ALWAYS look to see where the oil filter and drain are, where the battery is (some are now behind the firewall meaning you can't jump start the vehicle and need the dealer to change batteries), and where the alternator and starter are. If these are easily accessible, you can usually avoid auto mechanics (and their fees) for many, many years.
Wow, I did not know this! I was curious how I was going to buy a car and then take it to a mechanic... and if they found something wrong with it, how I was going to go back to the dealer and say "yeah, nevermind". Makes sense now.
A lot of places will allow you to take the car to a mechanic before you buy it.... some places will even let you keep the car overnight.
If you're planning on driving the vehicle until the wheels fall off, you might as well buy new. I mean, if you're going to pay the car off, does it really matter how much it depreciates? I say this but yet I have never bought a new car, lol. I want a $25,000 - 30,000 vehicle and since I can't afford that, I always find one that is 4 or 5 years old and get it.
I have bought 4 cars, 2 completely on my own and when I drove them, I just knew it was my car. I drove other cars and they might have had features that I liked but when I got behind the wheel I knew in an instant it was the car for me. That has been my car buying experience. Of those four cars, three were a Honda, one was a Toyota. Sometimes I wish I was made in Japan...
Ok, I say that I will drive it until the wheels fall off, but I can't absolutely guarantee that. I'm planning on getting a smaller car (2 door), so if the unplanned happens, and I need to get a larger car, I would just be more comfortable knowing I won't be upside down if I have to sell it.
What's most important to me is that I find a car that I like within my budget. There are very few new cars that fit into my budget, and the ones that do typically have less features, like troo mentioned, no power windows or locks (I'm a sucker for some power features), no cruise control, etc. No, they aren't essential, but if I'm going to be paying for a car, I'd like to get a car that has the features I want.
I really do appreciate everyone's advice, and especially those that have PM'd me with their details!
Keep in mind.... if you are going to litereally drive the car into the ground nd you know that up front hen the immidiete depreciation is only a mental block. It will never matter what your car is worth until you sell it!
Buy American!
I'm gonna disagree with stubbs on this one.... I would never buy an American car. I've had my best experiences with Nissan, & Honda. Worst experiences (and those of my friends) with Ford and Chevy. Of course this is totally a matter of opinion and experiences.
Also, I bought my last two cars (one for me and one for my daughter, both Hondas) from people on Craigslist. I went on whether I had a good vibe from the people (some were a little shady...) and if they were flexible. The guy I bought my Element from, was totally fine with me taking the car to a mechanic before I purchased it.
I'm gonna disagree with stubbs on this one.... I would never buy an American car. I've had my best experiences with Nissan, & Honda. Worst experiences (and those of my friends) with Ford and Chevy. Of course this is totally a matter of opinion and experiences.
In fairness, I'll say that I had a Chevy Cavalier that was totally okay. But I have to say that I have never heard anyone say anything bad about their Nissan. My mom has a Maxima that she's had for something like 15 years (no exaggeration) that she's only had to take in for work like 3 times in that time. I'm pretty sure it has well over 200,000 miles on it. And my aunt had a Sentra that she had forever and then gave to her sister (my other aunt). And my old boss had a Maxima that he gave to his neice when it had 200,000 miles on it, and he had given it to her a year or more before he told me about giving it to her and it was still running well. So, I would definitely recommend considering a Nissan. (But my car is a Hyundai Elantra, which I bought new in 2003 and has served me quite well. For the price, I also would endorse them as well.)
Personally I always buy GM product mainly because I am hardcore pro-union. I have never gotten less than 250,000 mile on one with only the expected problems (clutch, brakes alternator, starter) which I can do myself. The last GM truck I had got 320k miles and then I gave it to a friend who was hitching to work and they drove it another 50k+. My current truck has 125k miles over 8 years with no work so far.
I do make sure I buy the models with engines that have been around a while (ie 4.3L V-6 in my truck and 3800 in the Buick) as they have been proven over the years to last.
I will say I have had bad luck with Chryslers. They all start leaking oil through the seals after about 100k. Others I know seem to have the same problem (mainly with minivans.)
I can appreciate American cars and wouldn't be opposed to getting one. But my only experiences have been with foreign cars and both have been excellent. My first car was a Maxima that was our family car for about 8 years before I got it. It had over 200,000 miles on it when I started driving it, and I drove it for two more years. I LOVED that car. If I could afford a Maxima, I would totally get another one.
My current car is a Honda Accord, and as I've stated before, it has served me very well. I haven't taken care of it as I should, and it's lasted much, much longer than it should have without regular maintenance. So I'm very impressed with its durability.
The cars I'm looking most seriously at a Honda Civic and a Scion tc (not the box cars, the cute little coupes). As I've said before, I wouldn't be opposed to an American car if I find one I like.
I can appreciate American cars and wouldn't be opposed to getting one. But my only experiences have been with foreign cars and both have been excellent. My first car was a Maxima that was our family car for about 8 years before I got it. It had over 200,000 miles on it when I started driving it, and I drove it for two more years. I LOVED that car. If I could afford a Maxima, I would totally get another one.
My current car is a Honda Accord, and as I've stated before, it has served me very well. I haven't taken care of it as I should, and it's lasted much, much longer than it should have without regular maintenance. So I'm very impressed with its durability.
The cars I'm looking most seriously at a Honda Civic and a Scion tc (not the box cars, the cute little coupes). As I've said before, I wouldn't be opposed to an American car if I find one I like.
I love the Scion Tc, they look cool I was looking at those before I realized that a used Element was cheaper! My daughter has a Civic and treats it like crap and it runs great. It has around 175k miles on it and is a 1996.
Okie dokie... so I've looked up the Kelley Blue Book value for my car, and apparently, I've been low-balling my estimate. It claims I can get $2,225 for my car (selling it to a private party). I'd be happy with $2,000 since I was betting on getting about $1,000.
My question is: is it wise to list my car for $2,225 just because KBB says that's what it's worth? I know I can always negotiate with a buyer....
Okie dokie... so I've looked up the Kelley Blue Book value for my car, and apparently, I've been low-balling my estimate. It claims I can get $2,225 for my car (selling it to a private party). I'd be happy with $2,000 since I was betting on getting about $1,000.
My question is: is it wise to list my car for $2,225 just because KBB says that's what it's worth? I know I can always negotiate with a buyer....
List it at 2500, then go down to the kbb value. People always want to deal, or maybe you will get lucky. Also if you PM me the info I will have my GF put it up on the bulletin board at Vandy.
Thanks Jess, I will send you the info when I'm ready to sell it.
If I can get that much for my current car, I can probably get the new car earlier than I anticipated. There are a few small random things that might bring down the value (such as, I don't have the original key; it's a copy) so I'm hesitant to start out asking for $2500.
Thanks Jess, I will send you the info when I'm ready to sell it.
If I can get that much for my current car, I can probably get the new car earlier than I anticipated. There are a few small random things that might bring down the value (such as, I don't have the original key; it's a copy) so I'm hesitant to start out asking for $2500.
Just remember it is 100x easier to negotiate down rather than up. I would at least start at that and lower it if you have no takers.
Now I have a question about buying a car from an independent person (ie: Craigslist, etc). How does one pay for the tax, title, registration, etc when purchasing from a person? I'm assuming all of that is not included in their price, and I hear that the bank will not loan you the money for that. (You guys should know by now that I'm completely clueless in all things car-buying)
They will write the sales price on the back of the title, you will pay the tax when you get your tags.
Ok... any estimation on how much all of that will be? $3000-ish?
3000, would be 284.50. Here is the online calculator for Davidson cty., however you will still pay about 100 for the tags as well. Unless you transfer your current tags.
^You will need to take it through before you get the tags. I would recommend that you ask the buyer to do it and reimburse him the ten bucks. It will make your life easier, and you will know it can pass.
Post by questionablesanity on Jun 29, 2010 7:01:04 GMT -5
Wow, you guys have emissions testing?
Every loan that I've gotten for a car allowed extra for plates, registration, etc... But it'd be cheaper if you that out of pocket. The less you have to finance, the better.
I've bought and sold several used cars and I always fudge the amount on the title so it's cheaper on plates, etc.. The license branch has no way of checking this. I've done it on every car I've owned other than dealer bought vehicles.
A Thieve's Parade 2/24 Conspirator 2/26 Kevin Smith 3/11 Keller 3/17 Papadosio 3/18 JJ Grey 3/25 Bela Fleck/Edgar Meyer 3/26 Toubab Krewe 3/27 O'Death 4/11 Budos Band 4/22 EOTO 4/28 Summer Camp 5/6-29 All Good
Yes, Davidson County and several surrounding counties have emissions testing. My current car won't pass it, so I've always had it registered at my mom's address in a county that doesn't require testing.
I've talked to a few people about selling my car, and I'm confident that as long as I state that it cannot pass emissions without work, I will be okay. So I won't be listing it at Blue Book value because of that fact.... I'm going to list it a little below.
I e-mailed the person with car I was interested in on CL yesterday but she has to have it sold by Thursday. So that's a no-go... gonna keep looking!
Post by dreamingtree on Jun 29, 2010 16:51:19 GMT -5
Take your time on buying. I looked over the course of about a month on Craigslist for mine and my daughters and eventually found good ones.
The good deals are out there but you have to sift through the crap and the shady people. I kept calling and looking until I felt like I got a good vibe from the person along with a good price.
Also, I ran the carfax on every one of them - found out some had been in major wrecks, but the person never mentioned them, and one had mileage that totally was not correct.
Post by ziggyandthemonkeys on Jul 7, 2010 0:07:32 GMT -5
I am in a very similar boat and recently looked up my credit scores, but a card i just paid off does not show up in them. I was curious if anyone knows about how long it will take for the balance of that card to change in my credit reports?
Edit: After thinking about it for more than a minute I imagine that will happen after my next statement is released. I think I will be heading to the local credit union after that. A lot of great advice and experiences here. I will be buying used from a private party.
I am in a very similar boat and recently looked up my credit scores, but a card i just paid off does not show up in them. I was curious if anyone knows about how long it will take for the balance of that card to change in my credit reports?
Edit: After thinking about it for more than a minute I imagine that will happen after my next statement is released. I think I will be heading to the local credit union after that. A lot of great advice and experiences here. I will be buying used from a private party.
Well the first thing about paying off a debt and credit scores, not all agencies will change your credit report after paying off old debt. I am going through this right now. Typically it will remain on the report for 7 years. I am through 5 years of mine and the company that currently owns it will not do anything else to the credit report, so they are not getting paid. You need to specifically ask that once the agreement is made on payment terms that it will be removed from your credit report upon payment. If you have any further questions about credit scores/currently have outstanding debt, please PM me or something so I don't clog up the thread with it too much, but I could let you in on some info I found out through trial and error.
Post by questionablesanity on Jul 7, 2010 11:48:26 GMT -5
Ziggy,if you paid the card off, it should show up soon. If not, you'll have to call the cc company to tell them to get their shit together. My advice to everyone is to not use credit cards. I was once in a heap of cc debt but paid it all off. I only use them for big ticket items that I order online and I pay them off at the end of the month. Credit cards are the work of the devil.
A Thieve's Parade 2/24 Conspirator 2/26 Kevin Smith 3/11 Keller 3/17 Papadosio 3/18 JJ Grey 3/25 Bela Fleck/Edgar Meyer 3/26 Toubab Krewe 3/27 O'Death 4/11 Budos Band 4/22 EOTO 4/28 Summer Camp 5/6-29 All Good
Post by ziggyandthemonkeys on Jul 7, 2010 14:12:53 GMT -5
Mike, it was just a credit card, and not a collection. I do have about 200 in collections that I paid off already and is still on there, but I don't think there is anything I can do about that now. I will go in after this months statement is posted and if its not off there I will get on them about it. I used the credit cards for a few emergencies when I moved out for the first time and just have never gotten around to paying them off till now, but they aren't ridiculous balances.
Post by ziggyandthemonkeys on Jul 9, 2010 3:51:47 GMT -5
Congrats! Let us know how it goes. I am going in about a week to set up a savings account at the credit union here and talk to someone about what I need to do to qualify for the appropriate loan. This definitely seems like one of those stepping stones down the path of adulthood. The accumulate a seemingly crushing amount of debt stone. (No student loans for me, thank god)